To give you an overview of the key trends for autumn/winter 2022/23 womenswear, Streent Fashion has surveyed trend sites, fashion retailers and catwalk shows. For retailers and e-tailers who need inspiration, restocking, or updating their windows, here are a few of my favorites.
The suit jacket
In autumn/winter, the classic suit jacket, with its pronounced edges, is a staple piece. This look draws inspiration from Frankie Shop’s items: simple, conquering, plain or checked. A double-breasted jacket is back in fashion (as seen, for example, at Zimmermann).
Balletcore: the ballerina revisited
This winter, ballerinas are back with a vengeance. As part of the Balletcore trend, which houses such as Simone Rocha, Miu Miu, and Molly Goddard promote, it consists of reusing dancing profession elements, such as dresses, leotards, and ballerinas, which is being revived. In order to revive a shoe, it can be raised a few centimetres, laid flat on a thin rubber sole, embellished with origami ornaments, or embellished with a pointed toe.
In accordance with an article published on the Vogue France website on 12 July, the ultra-fashionable models offered by Alaïa are consistently out of stock. The French brand offers a version inspired by traditional Japanese footwear, available in rhinestone, metallic, fishnet or suede. In addition to the Mary Jane ballerina, which is finished with a strap, another trend-setter is the flat sandal.
The long ‘Quiet Luxury’ coat
Quiet Luxury is at the heart of AW23/24’s aesthetic, which refers to understated pieces with an ethereal, elegant discretion.The men’s coats, with their slightly dropped shoulders, are one of the highlights of the trend (some of which recall Kim Basinger’s coat in 912 Weeks).Its long, straight silhouette is available in soft beige or classic grey, black or navy blue (as seen at Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander, and Miu Miu, for example).This reassuring, enveloping piece plays the minimalist card without becoming boring.
The Quiet Luxury collection also includes oversized knit jumpers, long monochrome straight skirts, and all the basics (t-shirts, shirts, straight trousers, etc.).
There is no doubt that tailoring is a must this winter, with Saint Laurent presenting the 80’s skirt suits at its AW23/24 show last March: a powerful look with an indelible feminine edge. You can choose between monochrome or striped skirt suits or trouser suits, from luxury brands like Bottega Veneta to mass-market brands like Cos and Benetton.
As a result of their almost effortless styling contribution, coordinated two-pieces have become trendy in everything from tracksuits to loungewear ensembles. During the pandemic, jogging outfits gained popularity, and their cocoon effect remains popular today. Now, people are looking for outfits that are a little dressier, to wear at work or at home. Lovechild’s knitwear is among them, with its cozy appeal.
Metallic jackets, sequined dresses, and lurex tops are making their way into everyday wardrobes to bring a modern twist to Quiet Luxury.
In AW23/24, there is a strong trend to wear red clothes. It lends a confident silhouette and an air of femme fatality to dresses when this vibrant shade is used. There was fluidity and satiny in the gowns at Ann Demeulemeester, leather in the gowns at Isabel Marant, quilted in the gowns at Patou, pleated and high collared in the gowns at AZ Factory, or a Y2K inspired gown at Courrèges.
In general, the silhouette for AW23/24 will be oversized. Comfortable fabrics are used to support the wrap-around volumes to swathe the wearer. This does not, however, mean that feminine curves have been lost: leggings or opaque tights will be worn with the fullness of hoodies (popularized by the series And Just Like That) while a large coat will hide a miniskirt or transparent dress under a large man’s coat.
The Barbiecore trend is hard to ignore and its powerful pink with feminist connotations. Propelled by the blockbuster film Barbie, the color now conveys the message of empowerment, as directed by Greta Gerwig. This season, a range of pinks that are more or less similar to the shade worn by the Mattel doll is expected to continue the look started in 2022.
The buttoned waistcoat
This slightly oversized waistcoat borrows inspiration from both the three-piece suit and the waiter’s silhouette for AW23/24. It can be worn over a long-sleeved top, a sweater, a shirt, or worn without anything underneath.